Christchurch War Zone

K and I drove up from Timaru on the east coast of the southern island today in route to Christchurch, New Zealand - our last stop on our tour of New Zealand.  I would have to say that the east coast of the south island of New Zealand is probably the least interesting from a scenery perspective - flat lands and wide rivers coming from the Southern Alps.

We did see a giant salmon statue at the entrance of the little town of Rakaia (pop ~1000).  I thought Minnesota was the only place where cities erected giant fish in salute to fish, fishing and fisherman.

Agriculture and fishing (both ocean and river) is what drives the bulk of the economy in this part of New Zealand.

Before heading to Christchurch, we scooted out to the Banks Peninsula to the southeast of Christchurch.  The peninsula is really just a big giant extinct volcano.  The volcano's crater forms a huge bay (Akoroa Bay) from the Pacific.  Again, like the Otago Peninsula near Dunedin, it was quite beautiful. 

The purpose of our diversion for going out on the Banks Peninsula was to visit Akaroa.  This small village was a French settlement and France's attempt to colonize NZ.  A French captain set up the settlement, went back to France to advertise NZ and attract more settlers only to return to find the British had taken control of the islands.  However, the village still has a French influence today. [You might note the French flag in the shot below.]

From Akaroa, we went to Christchurch.  Many Americans may have heard of the two earthquakes that rocked this city (and surrounding suburbs) back in September 2010 (7.1 magnitude) and February 2011 (6.5 magnitude) - the latter quake killing 185 people.  What K and I did not have an appreciation of was the size of the devastation here.  I knew that the major cathedral in town was destroyed from reports in the news.  I did not understand that almost the entire downtown was crushed.

The walk K and I took through downtown was disturbing, depressing and yet also hope filled as you see how the people of Christchurch are trying to survive and rebuild.

The city center looks like a war zone or something out of an apocalyptic movie.  Many blocks have already been cleared, but it is the many tall and historical buildings that stand empty, damaged and sitting around like a ghost city that just make you want to weep.  Here are a few pictures of some of the devastation in the center city.

 It may be tough to see from my picture, but the little park/seating area around the theatre was all rumpled up.  There are few sidewalks or paved areas that are flat and smooth in town.

 The city's theatre stands empty with many broken windows and cracked parts.

 The largest remaining building looks like it was hit by a bomb.  The iconic stores stand empty and motionless in time.

 Christchurch Cathedral - all but destroyed.

 

 

We were told by several people we met that saw Christchurch before and after (some from NZ some from places like Australia) and say what a beautiful and charming city it was.  It calls itself the Garden City.  All outside of Christchurch agreed it was going to take decades to rebuild - if ever.

Yet human spirit overcomes and seeds of rebuilding and rebirth are emerging and that is the hope of this story.  Artists and urban green thumbs have attempted to provide little works and gardens throughout the most devastated areas - even trying to put art on the fences that keep people out of the condemned buildings.  Often the works are temporary and moveable so that they can be transported when a part of the city is being worked on.

 

Showing some incredible ingenuity, the city merchants have created a small shopping mall out of shipping containers seated next to the devastated and evacuated shopping district.  It is called the Re:START Mall.  Quite unique and cool looking temporary facility to bring some normality back to city center.

And there is building going on everywhere.  I have never seen a city with so many cranes in the air.

K and I hope we are alive long enough and able to travel back to NZ to see the final rebirth of this city. 

Actually, our whole trip to New Zealand has been a dream.  The adventures we have had, the places we have seen, and the fun we have had will leave a lasting impression on us for all our lives.  Tomorrow night, we fly to Auckland so we can fly to Australia on Thursday - G'Day Mate!