Waiheke Island and New Friends

Day 3 of our journey and to be honest K and I arose this morning not knowing exactly what to do.  We had actually crossed off the "must do" things for our Auckland visit.  So, we decided to check out the Kelly Tarlton Underwater World and Antarctic exhibit.  This is a marine park and exhibit created by one of New Zealand's celebrated explorer/treasure hunters Kelly Tarlton (he died at age 47 in 1985).  If time permitted, we thought we would visit one of the many little islands in Hauraki Gulf (the body of water to Auckland's east).

After we ate some breakfast we caught a cab.  Our cab driver, John, was a delightful fellow.  Very chatty.  Asking us what we had planned for our day, we explained our plan.  K then asked him what he would recommend and John was pretty honest.  He called the Tarlton exhibit a tourist trap.  "Have you seen a shark at an aquarium?' he asked.  We said yes.  "Then you have seen all there really is to the Tarlton thing.  I would spend my day on Waiheke island - it's lovely."  Didn't take much for K to have that cabby turning around and back to the ferry port for our trip over to the island in Hauraki Gulf.

It turned out to be a great decision.  The trip over gave us a great view of the harbor, many islands in the gulf and city from the water.  Some pictures from the boat - and the boat itself pictured below.

And Waiheke was a delightful island that was a cross between Napa Valley, CA and one of the Hawaiian islands.  K and I were both ready to move there permanently.  It used to be a hippy island with artist colonies, nude beaches, and pot growers (and still contains some of that feel/element).  Today, it contains the "Chardonnay crowd" as the Kiwis call it.  33 vineyards now populate the island and 20 of them have wineries and wine tastings.  Yes, you got it - K was in her heaven.  There was a picture at every turn, but below are a few I took.

We stopped and sampled two wineries - Mudbrick and Cable Bay.  Wines were good and the company even better.  Below, K is in her element at the Mudbrick winery!

We met up with some Aussies and an American couple.  Ralph and Cherie - from NY - were spending their last day in NZ before heading home.  They had just completed a trip to Australia and NZ.  Sound familiar?  Yep - they were finishing what we were starting.  We shared some great Waiheke wines and dinner on the island with this super couple and tried to find out what we must absolutely see.  Ralph and Cherie were wonderful.  This is what I so like about travel - seeing the world yes - but meeting great people and sharing a bit of your life with them even if it is for a brief moment in time.  Below, we are pictured with them.  Look at that view from our table!  I forget what we paid for dinner, but the view and the company made it under priced.

So not a hugely eventful day, but one that will measure up well for the scenery and the experience.

More City of Sails

Yesterday, K and I enjoyed a visit to two local farmers markets to start our day 2 in Auckland, New Zealand.  Our first market stop was one near our hotel and center city.  Below, K is making friends with the local "wildlife" feeding them part of her morning pastry we picked up at the market.

The other market we visited was much larger and was out in Parnell.  Parnell is one of Auckland's oldest - and now very quaint - suburbs.  Cute little shops and restaurants line the street (picture below).  For those from the Twin Cities it would be like Edina.  For those from Buffalo, it would be Orchard Park.

From Parnell, it was a short bus ride up to the Domain (Auckland's large city park - kind of like its Central Park) and the Auckland War Museum (their Smithsonian - but on a much smaller scale).  Auckland has been wonderful, but if you take the bus (very clean but also a little more expensive than buses in the US) listen carefully to the announcements, know where you are, and know your stops.  If there is a hit against anything in Auckland it is that streets are not real well marked and the bus announcements leave you wanting.  Also, you need to tell the bus driver when you want off (you push a button to ring a bell) or he/she just keeps on trucking past your stop (yep - we missed one or two stops).

The Auckland War Museum sits on top of a hill in the Domain and looks down over the city.  The Domain is actually an old volcano.  My posting from yesterday shows the Domain in one of the pictures I took from Skytower.  You can see it was a little cloudier/damp yesterday in Auckland (but still quite warm).

 

 

The Auckland War Museum (they now just call it the Auckland Museum, but many disagree with that renaming) is again focused on New Zealand and to a lesser extent to the surrounding Pacific islands.  Below are some pictures from some of the museum.

 Some Maori artifacts

 A Maori storage hut (for food, valuables, etc.)

 A Maori War boat - carried 80-100 warriors to battle.  One of the last known surviving boats.
We also attended a Maori cultural show there where they explained some of their customs and dance.  Here is a small video.  [Note:  K and I found that videos didn't seem to show up when using a tablet or smartphone.  To see the videos you may need to view this post using a laptop or other full computer.]

The Maori were many things but two become evident as you see their works and learn about them as a people.  They were master craftsmen and they were a warring people. From simple raw materials, they were able to fashion some ingenious and ornate items  Some very practical (fishing gear, clothes, etc.).  Other items were just ceremonial or had religious meaning.  From boats, to clothes, to tools... everything was decorated.  They were amazing wood workers.  The art of carving and woodworking was a man-only occupation of great honor.  Women were not allowed to watch or even clean up after the woodworking.  The carving debris was clean up and burned in sacred ritual -less the women use the shavings for something as unholy as cooking.  Try to square that with the wives fellas.

The art work got more sophisticated after Europeans arrived and provided the Maori with sharper metal instruments.  Below, similar hut roofs are shown before (black) and after European arrival (red).  While both were amazing, I hope you can tell the kind of minute detail that was carved into the red/latter piece.  Entire buildings were made in this type of fashion.  I can't imagine the amount of time that went into work like this.

As I indicated, they also fought a lot.  I asked our tour guide (Pamela) how often and who thee Maori fought.  She kind of chuckled and said (quietly) "each other all the time."  "Tribes versus tribe, subtribe versus subtribe...", sometimes it was over something significant and sometimes it could have been a small slight between head tribesmen.  A lot of time and preparation - by whole groups of people - was spent preparing for war and in fighting.

The relationship with the British started off very peaceful and fairly advanced for the time.  Back in 1840, the Treaty of Waitangi was signed between the British and the Maori, which put New Zealand and the Maori under the British crown but promised no taking of lands/resources without permission of the Maori.  Of course, the interpretation and understanding of the treaty was something the Maori argue (even to this day).  As is the case in history, there were many abuses by the "western" settlers.  So, it is not surprising that this warring people ultimately started warring with the British as well.

As mentioned, the museum was ultimately established as a memorial for New Zealand's war dead and wounded.  Most of the third floor of the museum is a marble wall scroll of those killed in NZ's various wars (see picture below).  If you will, very much like a Vietnam Memorial indoors.  There are many markers and remembrances to the wars and those that fought in them on the grounds and in the museum.  The architects of the building were 3 veterans from WWI.  That is why the name change is a bit of a issue among some Kiwi's.  The museum appears to be trying to decide if it wants to be a museum of all things NZ or does it want to be a war memorial.  It tries to be both right now - and I think well - but I could see where for a small/younger country it is still trying to define that which is educational from that which is sacred and about honor.

There are a lot of interesting artifacts from the wars (all the way from Maori wars to Afghanistan war) in the museum to compliment the war museum aspect as well (including the Japaneses Zero pictured above).

To conclude our day, we hiked Mt. Eden.  This is an extinct volcano that lies on the edge of downtown Auckland and provides stunning views of Auckland.  It served as a triangulation point when the city was first being planned in the 1800's.  Auckland sits atop 55 volcanoes.  As one of the exhibits in the War Museum suggested, "it is not if but when" that the next one (or an old one) will start up again.  They predict a 15-60% chance of one developing in the next 50 years. Here are a few pictures from the mountain (note the picture of the crater found at the top - not that's a hole!).

After hiking to the top, we stopped off at a set of restaurants/shops at the foot of the mountain for beer/wine and snack.  I snapped this picture from our table looking back up to the mountain.  Yep - we climbed the whole way to the top folks - and K didn't complain a bit (well not too much).

Lastly, I don't remember how or where I got turned on to the discussions of the various don't walk/walk street signs around the world, but it is something silly that has always fascinated me during our travels.  You can read a bit about this issue here.  Back in the days of west vs. communist block, there were whole philosophical discussions about the don't walk/walk signs and how they represented cultural decisions.  In NZ, they have a cute little walking man sign that I tried to capture on video.  Its a little grainy but you get the idea.  Far more exciting than the "DONT WALK" lights we have in the US.

We had dinner in a little Italian restaurant back in Parnell.  Don't believe any Kiwi that tells you the pizza is fit for one - split it with the one you love or suffer another notch in your belt that night.

Beautiful City of Sails – Auckland

We made it to New Zealand about 1am in the morning on Friday morning.  A completely uneventful trip from start (home in the US) to finish (through LA to Brisbane to Auckland).  K & I were a quite tired, but none the worse for wear.

K did a great job locating a hotel for us to stay in (as always).  We are staying in the CityLife Auckland.  We sit right under the Sky Tower in NZ (picture from our room up to the Skytower yesterday).  We awoke to the sound of little kids.  Our room on the 12^th floor sits just above the Lollipop daycare.

 

We slept in a bit and got a relatively late start.  We awoke to an absolutely gorgeous day in Auckland.  About 82 degrees (F) and sunny.  Enjoyed an cappuccino (K) and “flat white” for me (a uniquely Kiwi morning drink that is half way between a latte and cappuccino – a little more creamy) along with two enormous and delicious blueberry muffins that our server said came right out of the oven.  When I tore it apart, steam rose from the table so I think she was right.  I will try not to bore or upset people with pictures of food from this post.

After breakfast, it was on to the central city sites – and those we covered extensively on our first day.  For those going on a trip to New Zealand, I recommend the Lonely Planet guide book.  In the guide, they provide a great little walking tour guide which we used to explore on our first day.  [Side note:  also get Fodor's New Zealand guide book.  Fodor's provides better maps and descriptions of attractions, hotels, restaurants.]

We started at St. Kevin’s Arcade – a little bohemian-like shopping/eating area at the intersection of Karangahape Road and Queen Street (the main street in Auckland) and worked our way down Queen Street to the water front.  After exploring a few of St. Kevin’s shops (including seeing a few tattoo shops), we went through Aotea Square.  Aotea is at the heart of Auckland and the best way to describe it is it is kind of like Union Square in San Francisco.  Auckland Town Hall - another city highlight - borders the square (see square and town hall below).

 

Next, it was on to the Auckland Art Gallery.  A wonderful museum – completely free to all.  It didn't try to be a huge museum of everything in the world like you would see in Europe.  Instead, they housed (almost exclusively) works of art from New Zealanders (including Maori natives) or those that immigrated to New Zealand.  Extremely well done gallery without having too much or being overwhelming.  K is our art critic and it received her “K approved” seal.

From there a café stop and then through Albert Park.  This little park sits atop a small hill overlooking the center city.  It used to be the home of a British garrison/fort protecting the Europeans from warring Maori peoples.  It then became a center of commerce area and still holds a number of old merchant houses (picture of one below) on its edge.

A cute little park with lots of flowers (nice to see for those of us that are enduring the winter from hell).  Check out the cute little clock at the entrance to the park.  I just thought it was the cutest clock I have ever seen.

Albert Park borders Auckland University.  On the campus also sits the Old Government House - both pictured here.

 

Another cafe stop (wine and beer at a café under a hotel K almost had us stay at - Hotel Debrett- very K approved, which means pricey, if any one is coming here) and then from there, we headed down to the waterfront, the Viaduct Harbor and the Wynyard Quarter.  Pictured below is the Old Ferry Building (still active today in providing ferry service to surrounding islands and towns).

Auckland has more sail boats per capita than any other city in the world.  From what I saw, I can't argue with the math.  Boats of all types and sizes in this city.  Check out my favorite – a boat with its own helicopter!  When you have enough money to afford one of these ships and a helicopter to go with it,  think we can call you rich – in any language and in any part of the world.

After a break for some wine/beer and kumara (NZ sweet potato fries), we headed up the Skytower.  Here it is pictured from down on the waterfront and underneath…

And here are a just a few of the pictures from the tower itself.  Quite a stunning set of views.  The bridge in the picture in the middle is Auckland Bridge (about equal in size and importance to the NZ people as the Sydney Bridge in Australia).

 

 

K was not excited to walk over the plate glass window floors – freaked her out despite the signs.  For those looking to keep K out of their house, I found the way.  Install glass floors!

 

Finished up with dinner at Portofinos on the harbor.Tons more to talk about and show, but we are getting ready for day 2.  Stay tuned.

Almost there!

K and I made it safely to Australia - Brisbane to be exact.  Except for a few minutes of normal takeoff delay in Chicago and LA, everything was as smooth as silk.  I tell you what, having a live-in travel agent to take you on your vacations doesn't suck.  K knows how to get us from A to Z!  Her rates are a bit high (all living expenses for life), but K can get you around this world like no one can.

Here is the Qantas mother ship that got us to the world down under.  She was a beast.  Her name was "Fraser Island" - named after one of the famous Australian resort islands/destinations located in Queensland.  [By the way - for Mom, Dad and others that have a hard time seeing these small pictures, make sure you click on them to see them enlarged!]

 

K and I road in the top section of this 747 - business class (does K travel any other way?  If you have the means, I must recommend it - I am spoiled but it is the way to travel).  Below, we toast to our departure to the other side of the planet. 

The trip from LA to Brisbane was a little more than 14 hours.  No matter how much you try to prepare yourself for that long of a trip in a tin can - trust me - you can't.  It is one long journey and you just can't get your mind around it.  After about 7 hours out, I looked at my watch thinking this is about the longest I have ever been in a plane at one time and we are only 1/2 way there! 

 

Qantas does it up nice.  Both K and I feel the food and amenities are a bit better on American.  We are probably bias, but Qantas does make your flight as enjoyable as possible.  The lay-down seating allowed us to get some pretty good rest.  In fact, as you get on, they hand you pajamas.  Everyone in business class was hurrying about getting into them even before we left the ground.  They fed us dinner within the hour after takeoff and then out went the lights.  The idea was pretty simple - sit back, relax and try to get some sleep.  Its going to be a long trip.  Amazingly, it worked.  K and I got off the plane feeling pretty good.  Not the usual jet lag you feel going to Europe. We'll see how that works later today as we don't leave for Auckland until 5:25pm this evening.  [Below, our big bird on the ground in Brisbane.]

 

We weren't allowed downstairs into the economy section of the plane.  If Dante was alive during air travel times, I can only imagine he would have added a 10th layer of hell and it would be called "coach class to Australia."  14 hours crammed into one of those seats - I can't imagine the horror.

 

Having the ability to go into the Admirals club in Chicago, LA and here in Brisbane (where I write this post) makes all the difference too.  Relaxing with a nice wine or coffee makes the trip much more enjoyable and less stressful.  Below is a view from the Qantas lounge overlooking the Brisbane main terminal.

 

Both K and I were struck by how the scene was just like what you would see in any terminal in the US (or other country) on a weekday morning.  Even a coffee shop with a long line of people getting their morning "joe."  [Sorry - no Starbucks K!].  It was about 8am when we arrived.

 

I suppose we shouldn't be surprised, but when you travel literally 1/2 way around the world, I am always struck at how much we are all the same.  There are differences in people, customs, places you go, but in the end, the human race has a lot in common no matter where you find yourself on this little blue planet.

 

There are small reminders that you "you ain't in Kansas any more Dorothy."  For example, when I pulled up Google, you'll note the small shift to "Google Australia" as shown below.

 

 

To wrap up our first post from below the Equator, here are a few cool pictures K took on the plane as it descended into Brisbane.  The last one is the shadow of the plane K captured in the morning clouds.  I am calling it "Monster in the clouds."  More from NZ...

 

 

WE'RE OFF

Well today is the day!  Planning is over and now the fun begins.   Of course, the fun comes at the expense of one immense travel day.  K calculates that it will be about 23+ hours of flying time and about 40+ hours of total travel time (with all the layovers).  In fact, we just skip tomorrow - the 19th - due to the international date line.



If nothing else, we are looking forward to some nice weather.  Below is a picture outside of home just before we left (we had about 4" of new snow yesterday).

For those wondering how K did in getting packed...?  Well, not too bad.  We have just 2 larger bags and one smaller one - although K is calling the small one her "carry on."  Hmm... I don't know if her fellow airline employees will agree  :).

So long from the US, we'll have more when we touch down in NZ!

By the way - like the hat on J in picture above??  [Note:  NZ and Australia have some Ozone problems and recommend a hat that covers your ears.]  K said I looked like a dork, but then proceed to get one.  We will be a pair of American dork's down under.  That should set American relations abroad back a few decades.

Planning our trip to Melbourne, AUS - AFL

KW and I always like to get a feel for the local culture in our travels.  What do locals eat?  Where and how do they live?  What do they do with their free time?

In Australia, as we are learning, a lot of people follow Australian Rules Football.  The premier league in Australia is the AFL or Australian Football League.  The AFL season is getting ready to fire up in March and we hope to take in a game (or is it called match?).  From what I have read (one place to start to get an appreciation of the importance of "footy" in Australia is here), Aussie football is as popular in Australia as the NFL in America - and perhaps even more so in terms of the percentage of its people following the sport.

The area around Melbourne hosts 9 of the 18 teams in the AFL.  Imagine 1/2 of the NFL located in New York City or Los Angeles!  That's how important the AFL is in Melbourne.  So, KW and I are trying to take in a match in Melbourne and "barrack for" (versus "root for" as we say here in America) one of the local favorites.

Obtaining tickets has been a bit difficult and complex.  We are looking to try to attend the March 24, 2014 match between the North Melbourne Kangaroos and Essendon Bombers.  However, either tickets are already sold out or not available yet - we can't quite tell which.  If you are familiar with Australia and the AFL, tell us what is the best way to grab a pair of tickets.  The AFL and Australian Ticketmaster site don't appear to offer any tickets to the game.

If we are not able to attend a match of the premier league (the AFL), are there other levels of match that we can and should explore?

If you are a fan of the game, tell us what we should look out for if/when we are able to attend a match.  What are the local customs and traditions associated with Aussie football, and what faux pas should we be aware of and avoid?