Napier, Hawke's Bay and Wine Country

Yesterday, K and I made the trip from Taupo to the east coast of New Zealand - specifically Hawke's Bay.  As I understand it, many people who travel to New Zealand bypass this part of the country.  However, it is a big wine growing region in NZ so it was a definite stop for us (well K at least).

Glad we made the trip too.  The trip over included some stunning scenery (as we have come to almost expect in New Zealand) and the town of Napier is as cute as a button.  Of course, there was the wine too.  It made for a perfect day - a nice laid back day - after a long hike the day before.

Lots of sheep and dairy farms on the way over - but a lot more beautiful countryside than what the guides tell you about between Taupo and Napier.  New Zealand is famous for its sheep, wool, and lamb products.  We saw many of them, but a lot of cows and dairy farms too.  We were told by one of our guides that the dairy/cattle industry has been on the rise because dairy/meat prices have been going up while sheep/wool prices have fallen.  She thought that would change back after time.

Napier

Napier is a coastal town in the heart of the east coast wine region.  Agriculture is big here.  However, an earthquake (and subsequent fire) all but destroyed this little town in February of 1931.  When they rebuilt it, they had incredible vision.  They decided to rebuild the town all in the modern art deco style of the time - and it has stayed that way since.  It makes for a great little picturesque town with lots of flair.  Here are some pictures of the town center.

There are also a number of older cars from the rebuilding era on the streets of the city as well.

 

 

Even the manhole covers are art deco.  For Uncle Sean - maybe a new product offering for your foundries - art deco manhole covers?

Napier is right on the Pacific Ocean.  They have a beautiful collection of little parks/gardens right on the ocean front.  Here are some pictures from the parks.  After the US has endured such a tough winter, hopefully these pictures will help to give you hope that summer will again return.  I really wish we did more of this in the US.  A park with some nice gardens makes for a beautiful, quiet space in a city and you see people enjoying them all the time in Europe, Asia and here.

 



We stayed in the Masonic Hotel.  It is one of the oldest in town and has hosted several of the royal family over the years.  It too was reconstructed in the art deco style.  Another great hotel choice on K's part.

 

Wine Country

K booked a wine tour with our hotel (a last minute decision that turned out to be a fabulous addition to our trip).  If you come to Napier and you like wine, this is a great way to get to taste some great wines of the east coast (north island), take in some gorgeous wine country scenery, and learn about the area.  I highly recommend it (all the wine tasting you want without having to do any driving yourself).  The hotel does the tour through Bay Tours and Charters - if you want to book it on your own.  If you have an option, ask for Katrina.  She was absolutely fantastic.  K and I have been on many tours and in all our travels, I would have to say Katrina rates #1.  She was a fantastic host, very patient, incredibly informed on the area and more than willing to share her knowledge with everyone, and just a nice person to be around.  She is also a proud Kiwi and will give you all sorts of information about her country.  If you want to really get her going, ask her about the All Blacks - the nation's rugby team and a ravenous passion for most Kiwis. 

 

After we got to our hotel and had a chance to wander around town, Katrina picked us up at the hotel and we spent the afternoon with her and 5 others from all parts of the world.  Again, one of the reasons I love to travel is to get a chance to meet people from diverse backgrounds and places on this globe.  On our tour, we had a Canadian from Calgary, a couple from Munich, Germany, and an Aussie couple from Sydney.  All wonderful people and after the first taste of wine to loosen everyone up, we became fast friends.  We are all pictured below.

We went to three wineries.  2 of them are very small and don't do any exports:  Salvare Estates and Ash Ridge.  The other was a "mid" sized winery called Crossroads.  That is another reason you may want to get a tour - you get access to some of the smaller vineyards which means no crowds and direct access to talk to the wine makers.  Each of the three we talked to were very interesting and more than willing to help educate you on wine making and New Zealand's prized industry.

 

I am not a wine connoisseur so I am not equipped to compare the wines to others in the world.  Many that I tasted seemed pretty darn good to me.  In the middle of tasting, we were asked by the wine maker which of the wines we preferred.  My answer was - "the next one."  That is as far as my skills/knowledge go for wine.  K, on the other hand, is a wine maker's dream.  Loves them, knows good from bad, and most importantly a big purchaser/consumer of wine.  She gives the wines in New Zealand her "K seal of approval."  As always, some are better than others, but overall - very good quality.  Don't look to be impressed by the vineyard buildings like you can be in Napa (see some pictures of a few below).  They are very simple barns or houses - not glamorous tasting facilities (a la Napa Valley).  So go on the tour only if you want to sample some great vino.

Well - that is it from Napier.  Today we head to Wellington to wrap up our tour of the North Island of New Zealand.

Typos

For Mom, Dad, my sisters, my sister-in-law, brother-in-law and other teachers among my family and friends, I know there are lots of typos in my posts.  Take heart.  I write in the evening and then K reviews them in the morning - after which I fix them.  So if you want to read the more polished version, give it about 24 hours.  If you read the post right away - you get a chance to see just how bad my writing is and why I provide a lot of employment for editors.

Hiking Mt. Doom - the Tongariro Alpine Crossing

For fans of JRR Tolkien's Lord of the Ring series and the movies made from them, you will want to make a trip to New Zealand because most of the films have been shot here.  And of all the scenes in the movie, possibly one of the most memorable is that of Mount Doom.  Supposedly, Mount Ngauruhoe in New Zealand and in the Tongariro National park was the inspiration for the scenes for the director in Lord of the Rings.  Some of the scenes in the movie were set on this mountain and nearby Mt. Tongariro.

Yesterday, K and I hiked the Tongariro Alpine Crossing trail that went up/down these mountains.  The walk was incredible - if not a real physical challenge.

As I mentioned, in my post yesterday, the Great Walks are incredible "tramps" or hikes through great scenery and landscapes in NZ.  Find more info about these walks here.  Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a 12+ mile hike that takes you up dramatic volcanic landscape in a World Heritage Area.  You start just above 2,000 feet and go to about 6,100 feet and back down.  You go through so many different elevations, landscape and climate changes that you have to pack everything from cold weather gear to hot weather gear in your pack.  We were hot at the bottom and a bit chilly on top.

My family and friends know that I stay in good shape.  Still, this was a challenge even for the fit.  K was an absolute trooper.  To say it was a challenge for her would be an understatement.  Still, she did great.  No complaining at all.  Well, ok, at the end coming down maybe a little :)    Funniest comment was "I hate the downhill part.  Could they figure out some way of allowing us to do this without the downhill part?"  Yeah - they are working on that Honey.

About 180,000 people take this hike each year (some in snow believe it or not).  According to our van driver, only 30 mountain rescues a year take place.  Pretty impressive given what you will see in pictures below.

The scenery was just incredible - I don't think I need to say more, but just let you see some of the pictures.  I took 400 pictures (even more than the day before in Wai-o-tapu) so I've tried to select the best of the best.

Way back in the planning phases of our trip, I posted a blog about our options and asked people that have been for advice about this hike.  I didn't get any, so here is my advice to those that plan to go to New Zealand and want to do the walk.

1.  Plan ahead.  Get your hotel lined up before you go.  The nights we were in Taupo, the hotels had no vacancies.
2.  Yes you do need to be in some shape, but you don't need to be an athlete or marathon runner.  We saw people of all shapes and sizes on the hike.  The better shape you are in, the easier it will be, but you don't have to hike 12 miles at home to be prepared.  Can you walk a couple of miles without being winded or sore?  If so, you will be sore after Tongariro's challenge, but you will survive it and love it.  Take it easy (slow but steady) and if you can, do a little exercise to get in a bit of shape before you go.  Most people finish in 7 hours.  We finished in 8 hours.  Not bad for a pair of older folk.  You can hire a guide (absolutely required for a winter hike), but definitely not necessary unless you want someone to help point out special features on your hike.
3.  Have the right equipment.  They don't lie when the guides tell you weather can change quickly.  We experienced several temperature changes on our hike, and for the most part it was a nice summer day all around New Zealand.  Have food and water with you.  The recommendation to us was for 2 liters of water per person (1 to 1.5 would have suited us).
4.  There are no bathrooms on the mountains - and no trees to hide behind either.  Take advantage of the facilities when you see them at the start and end.
5.  Plan ahead with regard to your transportation.  You need a van or car to take you from the end of the trail back to your car at the start of the hike (the start and end of the hike are separated by about 20km).  Alternatively, you can park your car at a tour company's lot and have them take you to the beginning and then pick you up at the end and take you back to your car.  This is the option we chose.  There are several companies to choose from.  I chose poorly.  I chose Adventure HQ.  Don't use them.  Check TripAdvisor for alternatives.  We plan to post more info there about why Adventure HQ is not our recommended service.  Despite this, we had a great day and if this is the only negative we have about NZ, well then we have nothing to complain about.

It will definitely be a hike I shall always remember the rest of my life - for the accomplishment if not the beauty.  Here is a picture from the side of the road as we headed away from Mt. Doom.  Yep - no lie - we hiked that bitch!

After our hike yesterday, we needed something a little more casual and subdued.  For K, that means a trip to the wineries.  More tomorrow on that event.